Port Lincoln
In December 2024, we travelled to Port Lincoln, South Australia. Port Lincoln is home to the largest fishing fleet in the Southern Hemisphere.
"The local Southern Bluefin Tuna (SBT) industry has worked tirelessly to recover the global population, which declined after years of unregulated fishing through the 1960s and 70s. International catch restrictions that were introduced in the 1980s have led to increases in both juvenile and adult populations. By 2014, the ongoing scientific assessment of the SBT population confirmed a strong recovery and sustainable fishing. In 2015, the Port Lincoln SBT industry was awarded the internationally renowned Friend of the Sea sustainability certificate in recognition of the sustainable management of both the SBT wild fishery and aquaculture operations. Certification has been maintained through 2021 for consistently prioritising the fishing of tomorrow, not just today.
Today, the industry is the most valuable sector of South Australia's aquaculture industry. The SBT industry has an estimated annual value of between AUD$150-$300 million. Direct and indirect employment in Port Lincoln is over 1500 full-time equivalents. The entire industry is intricately orchestrated and powerfully driven. Success relies on an awesome demonstration of teamwork, with each step relying on the successful completion of the one prior. Decades of experience, research and attention to detail feed into the practice, yielding a world-class, premium quality product."
During the flight from Adelaide to Port Lincoln, we saw already the holding pens for BST and Kingfish in the Spencer Gulf.
Anticipating dirt roads, we rented a 4WD SUV.
Driving on challenging roads:
First, we explored the Port Lincoln Marina, where the fishing fleet is located.
The next day, we explored the city:
We had an excellent take-out lunch from a French cafe, "L'ANSE" and liked it so much that we did breakfast the next day there too:
On our first day in Lincoln National Park, we drove to Memory Cove Wilderness Protection Area. The drive was quite challenging on the dirt road.
We saw an Emu near the road:
And, we spotted a goanna which I managed to photograph.
We found a pristine, almost empty beach at Memory Cove; some snorkelers and others tried to catch sand whiting. Memory Cove was named by Captain Matthew Flinders, who discovered the area while commanding the H.M.S Investigator on the afternoon of Saturday, 20 February 1802. Due to a water shortage on board, Master Thistle, Midshipman Taylor and six crew were dispatched to the mainland to search for safe anchorage and water. At the same time, Flinders finalised the exploration of Uncertain Island.
I snorkled a bit, observing a few small fish, including a tiny Flathead:
We then drove to the sand dunes—thanks to our 4W drive with axe-lock. We observed some kids doing sandboarding.
On our way back, we ate at The Fresh Fish Place:
The next day, we went out with Calypso Star Charters to swim with Sea Lions at Grinder Island. We also saw some dolphins close to the boat, but not while in the water. The 40-minute experience was amazing, as the sea lions wanted to play with us.
Playing with Sea Lions:
We had dinner at the Marina Hotel.
The next day, we did a 2-hour bushwalk, grade 4, at Stamford Hill, the Stamford Hill Loop Hike. "Excellent views, tranquil surrounds and interesting history are features of this hike. Take in the magnificent panorama of Lincoln National Park, Boston Bay and offshore island from the historic Flinders Monument at the top of Stamford Hill. Discover historic ruins left by the woodcutters. At way up to the summit of Stamford Hill there are interpretive signs about the challenges Matthew Flinders encountered in finding water, and signs about the area’s natural history: Imagine climbing through this dense scrub on a hot February day. Eight of your crew had been lost at sea just days earlier, and now supplies of freshwater are low. This is the situation that Captain Matthew Flinders faced when he anchored below Stamford Hill on 25 February 1802. Flinders described the hill as 'a ridge of moderately high land about two miles long, but when seen to the north or south it assumes a conical form. I named it Stamford Hill; and there being a good deal of wood scattered over it, a hope was given of procuring water by digging at the foot.' He named the hill after a village in his homeland of Lincolnshire, England. From the top of the hill, Flinders could survey the area and record angles necessary for mapping."
We passed Pillie Lake:
We had magnificent views from the trail.
In the evening, we had dinner at Del Giorno's.
We went to the lighthouse and September Beach at Lincoln National Park the next day. We explored the beach; I discovered a tidal zone pool with red-footed Rockpool Shrimps. Several animals and plants that I saw, I later recognised in this guide to Rockpooles.
On our way, we discovered another goanna:
Cars are allowed on the beach:
We had an excellent dinner at Peter Teakle Line & Label.
- Smoked pork, apple kimchi, kohlrabi, radish, soy, koji mayo
- Hiramasa sashimi, daikon, ginger, wasabi, caviar, ponzu, red fingerlimes
- Grilled bluefin tuna, ricotta gnocchi, saffron, fennel, sauce vierge
- Charcoal Kingfish, sambal, coastal greens, lime, curry butter
The service was excellent. We particularly appreciated the explanations of the dishes and the rationale of the composition at serving time. The view onto the vineyard was magnificent.
We also did the "Seafood Bay Cruise" with Calypso Star Charters. Overall, we had a great time observing wildlife, but we could not understand what Ash, our guide, was saying while talking in the back of the boat over the engine noise. The PA system was not functioning. We saw a lot of sea lions because the skipper got very close to them on Donington Island.
"Kingfish have been farmed in Spencer Gulf since 1992. The cycle begins in the Clean Seas hatchery in Arno Bay, where eggs are collected from healthy brood stock. After 48 hours the eggs hatch and are placed in larval rearing tanks. At 75 days old the fingerlings are transferred to sea cages in Spencer Gulf and fed a highly developed diet to guarantee correct nutrition and optimum growth. A concentrated effort through consistent research and development maintains highest qualities for the product and minimal impact on the environment. After 18 to 24 months the fish are harvested at approximately four kilograms and marketed both domestically and internationally. Currently, 2500 to 3000 tons are produced annually." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
Mussel Farming: Floating mussel larvae attach themselves to specialised spat collecting ropes suspended down to six metres then begin to feed immediately. At five months old they are stripped from the collection rope, transported to the grow out sites and seeded onto grow/dropper ropes on the same day. The rate of seeding (mussels/metre) is determined by local environmental conditions, timing and size required at harvest. An automated process for seeding has been developed whereby the juveniles are loaded into a continuous sock that surrounds the grow rope which the mussels will soon attach themselves to. The grow/dropper rope surrounded by mussels and encased in a sock is all then attached to a longline system to a depth of around 10 metres and supported by a large buoy assembly. As the mussels grow the number of buoys is increased to counteract the additional weight. Being filter feeders this suspension technique optimises the ability for the feeding mussels to access the required nutrients within the ambient waters and promotes quick growth and a high meat yield. After approximately 18 months from spat collection the mussels are harvested by utilising the same automated system used to remove the spat. They are then washed, graded, bagged up and transported to a modern shore-based facility ready for processing into consumer packaging. The local mussel farmers produce around 1500 ton annually from 550 hectares on sites located in Boston Bay, Louth Bay and adjacent waters. Ninety-five per cent of mussels are sold live. The remaining five per cent are sold cooked." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
Tuna Farming: "Once counted and secured away, the process of feeding and monitoring the health of the tuna commences. It involves daily inspections by divers and feed boat operators. The advances in tuna aquaculture have been rapid. As fishermen were already proficient in skills acquired over generations, it was practically second nature. Individual companies leap-frogged their adversaries on a daily basis, rising to the high standard of husbandry evident today. This includes crew safety and environmental responsibility, attributes shared by all aquaculture on Eyre Peninsula. The tuna are held for 3-4 months, being fed six days a week. In 2016, 42,000 ton of feed was consumed. Due to the drop in water flow during dodge tides (extreme reduction in tidal variation) and subsequent cut in oxygen availability, some farmers opt to restrict feed volumes to mitigate stress, as demand for oxygen while feeding is high. Health and well-being are scrutinised continuously until optimum size and fat content is achieved for the Japanese market. Domestic market demand is relatively insignificant in the scheme of the overall industry yet is not and should not be ignored. Small air shipments are made to Japan for the fresh fish markets although this process has been greatly reduced since the inception of tuna farming. Today, freezer/carrier vessels arrive and daily harvests are processed, then fed to them according to their freezing capabilities. Where once we struggled to achieve hundreds per day, numbers are well into the thousands, making for better quality and economic viability." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
"The Australian sea lion is the rarest seal species in Australian waters. Now endangered, it's estimated that there's between 10,000 and 15,000 sea lions in Australia. South Australia has approximately 82% of the population - the other 18% exist in Western Australia. The current low population size is due to a combination of exploitation during the sealing era, interactions with commercial fisheries, prey depletion, human disturbance, diseases and marine pollution. Populations are still declining at a rate of 2% per year on average. Due to their vulnerability to disturbance, Australian sea lion colonies are largely restricted to remote, offshore islands. A large portion of colonies are located on islands off the coast of Eyre Peninsula."
On our last day, we visited Oyster HQ in Coffin Bay, situated right on the water's edge. They offer all-day oysters and tapas-style dining, showcasing the fantastic Eyre Peninsula seafood and produce. They even have an oyster vending machine:
"Experience the pristine clear waters, pure fresh air and creamy salty taste of Australia's most sought after Coffin Bay Oysters on our Oyster Farm Tour! Wade out into the water, learn to shuck your own oysters, and taste our famous Coffin Bay oysters, moments after being plucked straight out of the sea! An up-close and personal experience with the Oyster Farmer himself, a once-in-a-lifetme culinary adventure, and the only place in the world, where you have the opportunity to:
- Climb into waders and wade through the water
- Sit in the heart of working commercial oyster farm, on our floatng 'Salt Water Pavilion'
- Savour the experience with a glass of South Australian
Riesling whilst out in the water - Hear the history of Coffin Bay, and oyster farming Select from options to create your memorable experience:
Bottle of Sparkling/ Riesling, Add Extra Oysters, Enjoy a Seafood Platter after the tour at Oyster HQ."
Oyster Farming: "Each farm site engages systems according to requirements. On the Eyre Peninsula either "rack and rail" or "Variable Longline System" are used. Our focus will be on longline which was developed in Cowell. These system operations vary so as to take advantage of the local environmental conditions. The variable longline is where the oyster baskets are attached to a line suspended between wooden posts with a clip system for that line at a number of levels. Construction of the site is mainly done in summer to capitalise on lower tides and favourable weather. Oysters begin in a hatchery where they are grown out to approx 4mm then shipped to farmers. They are then placed into bags containing around 250 oysters each. The amount decreases through the grow out period (down to 60 per basket) giving more room and optimum growth conditions. The baskets are hung to expose the oysters at low tide yet other factors may govern this level depending on nutrient requirement, salinity or growth rate preference. All these factors may differ from operator to operator considering tides, nutrient demands and weather. The baskets of oysters are returned to shore based facilities 3-4 times for grading during their lifecycle with dead ones removed and the remaining to be returned to the site the following day. Time from hatchely to harvest is again determined by growth rates and market demands, average at 14 months."
On our way back, we spotted another Emu:
More pictures here.
New Zealand 2024 - Part 2
Click here for Part 1.
We stay in Aoraki near Mt Cook in the Aoraki Court Motel. We had a late second lunch upon arrival, watching two avalanches coming down from the remaining snow on the mountain.
We do the Hermitage Big Sky Stargazing at 0:30 am with clear skies in the unique location beneath the mountains in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. The two guides explain by pointing with lasers into the sky. They also had two telescopes on tracking mounts. We learn that the closest star system in the night sky is called Alpha Centauri, and it is one of the pointers that help us find the Southern Cross. The light you see from it has taken nearly 4.5 years to reach the Earth! In addition to the Milky Way, there are two other galaxies to look for on nights in New Zealand, called the Magellanic Clouds. We went to bed at 2:30 am.
In the morning (well, 10 am), we did the Hooker Valley Track but turned around after 1.5 hours (about half the way in). The swinging bridges were a bit scary, and no one obeyed the 20-person limit as the track was super crowded.
We read at one spot, “The rumble and crash: Shhh! Listen of an ever-changing landscape: Can you hear the rocks and snow tumbling down from the mountains above? The rushing of water? It is the sound of change-of glaciers retreating and mountains being torn down by water and ice. A hundred years ago, the Mueller Glacier filled the valley floor. You could have walked onto the glacier from near here. Today the glacier is all but hidden up the valley. Glacial ice left behind is still visible at the far end of the lake. Piles of rock rubble (moraine) dropped by the glacier mark its past extent.”
On Tuesday, 2 January, after Checkout, we met up at the Activity Retail Centre in the Hermitage lobby at 7:30 for the Glacier Explorer. Our guide tells us a bit about Aoraki: 300 people live in the village during the summer and only 100 in the winter, as there are almost no winter activities available. The area is government owned and all services are run by eight companies. The highest mountain is Mt Cook, which is 3724 metres high. It is also called the Cloud Piercer, as its peak is above the clouds for every two of three days. We are told that the Waitaki Hydroelectric Power System connects the three big lakes by man-made canals. Two lakes have a bluish colour from the glacier water. The contributing rivers have a milky, chalky colour from the rock ground up by the glaciers. However, the big particles sink to the bottom while the smaller ones stay at the surface. We learn that the last ice age was about 18,000 years ago, with the Tasman Glacier about 100 km long and 4 km wide. During the glacier’s movements, it “plugs” big rocks as glacier till and deposits these on the floor after melting as “abandoned glacier till”—sometimes up to 400 m deep. The valley receives up to 7 metres of rain per year, resulting in, among many other things, the Wakefield Waterfall, which is the highest waterfall in the park.
After a short bus ride and a 20-minute walk, we embark on small zodiacs with outboard motors in groups of 12 people with a guide/skipper. We are told that the Tasman Glacier is currently 27 km long, the longest in NZ. Its black surface comes from all the water melting while the till stays at the top, forming now a 2-3 metre layer of rocks and gravel. The glacier was 100 meters high only 80 years ago at the terminal phase (and there was no “Tasman Lake) and now is only 30 metres high. It retreats 150 meters per year at the 1.5 km wide terminal phase. Interestingly, there are another 270 metres of ice below the water's surface, which sometimes results in big breakaways, creating an ice shelf reaching 200 metres under the surface. We stayed 600 metres away from the calving area.
We also stopped at some floating icebergs to observe the bluish ice crystals from close up. I have the GoPro with me and record some short videos.
After returning to the car, we started our drive to Wanaka, where we have an Airbnb in Albert Town. We stop by in Twizel at the High Country Salmon Farm. We have a Salmon Plank with various samples of their salmon dishes, from sushi to salmon pate.
After arriving in Albert Town and unpacking, we drove the two kilometres into Wanaka, where Gisela went shopping while I sat at Lake Wanaka writing these lines. We have dinner at Bombay Palace’s second-floor balcony, allowing us an unobstructed view of the Lake. The food is delicious, and the service provided by the friendly staff is superior. I leave a nice review on Google.
The next morning, Wednesday, we go for a hike at Diamond Lake Conservation Area. The climb is steep, but we are rewarded with an excellent view of Diamond Lake and Lake Wanaka. “Diamond Lake Conservation Area is part of a spectacular mass of rock shaped by glacial action. Native forests and shrubland nestled into bluff systems add an attractive component to the landscape. The lake is impressive with its dramatic backdrop of high schist cliffs. The summit of Rocky Mountain (775m) provides excellent views over Lake Wanaka and its two largest islands, Mou Waho and Mou Tapu. From this vantage point to the west rise the peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park with the distinct shape of Mt Aspiring/Tititea dominating the sky line.”
In dense traffic, we stopped at Lake Hawea before returning to Airbnb. We go to the nearby Clutha River for a picnic in the evening. Across the river is a densely packed campground, but our side of the river is thankfully deserted.
The next morning, we drove 100 km to Queenstown to our hotel, Villa Del Lago, with a view of Lake Wakatipu, just 2 minutes drive from Queenstown.
After arriving, we walk 3.4 km to eat at Pedro’s By The Lake. I have a glass of El Coto (Rioja -VIURA Easy drinking dry white with a rounded texture and notes of pear.)
We have a variety of different tapas. We watch people do fake skydiving.
We then go to Queenstown into the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. We watch the Kiwi show: “Kiwi numbers have plummeted - from millions 200 years ago, to about 70,000 today. Many of the places they lived are now cities, towns or farms. Kiwis are killed by stoats, dogs, cats, ferrets, pigs and possums.” “Kiwi are Unusual, More Like a Mammal Than a Bird: Kiwi is New Zealand's most ancient bird and a biological oddity. Because New Zealand had only three native land mammals (tiny bats), kiwi evolved to fill a mammal's niche. Unique features of kiwi are feathers are shaggy, like coarse hair; bones are heavy and marrow-filled; they have a mammal's low body temperature; live in burrows; chicks hatch fully feathered, but they take 3 - 5 years to attain adult size; only bird with nostrils at the tip of their bill.”
At 4 pm, we watched the general animal show with a Tuatara, New Zealand's Living Fossil: “When it's cold, tuatara go into a form of hibernation called torpor. They retreat to their burrows, barely move and slow their breathing and heartbeat right down to save energy.” They can get 150 years old and do not belong to the family of reptiles, lizards, or crocodiles but form their own family. They have one individual Tuatara in another zoo, which is 130 years old. The tuatara has a third eye, a photoreceptor, on its forehead.
They then showed us Australian Lorikeets that were introduced into NZ.
The other introduced species is opossum of which there are 80 million in NZ now. They are trapped, and then their fur is mixed with Merino Wool for socks and other wool products. Later, we see socks in a local store. “Possum Merino: 33% NZ Possum Fur, 44% NZ Merino, 7% Silk, 16% Synthetic Cushioning. The sole and heel areas are cushioned with a plush zone for enhanced comfort and wear.“
They also show us a Weka and Kereru at the show. Wekas are flightless birds with a great homing instinct. They can walk great distances and swim across rivers and streams, some have been known to swim distances of up to a kilometer to get home. Agricultural development and the introduction of mammalian predators were the reasons for a drop in the number of Weka in the late last century. But the biggest problem was between 1915 and 1925 when many vanished…many probably due to disease.”
We also see a Kea in an enclosure and read: “Kea have the same problem-solving (and mess-making) ability as a 4-year-old child! We are given many toys and enrichments to play with so we don't get bored.” We read, “The young Kea learn by mimicking what their parents do and playing with each other. Once they are two or three years old and on their own, Kea spend a few years hanging around in Kea gangs. These are the Kea's 'teenage' years, and it is these gangs that are most often seen around places such as ski fields.” “Kea are cheeky and inquisitive, the clown of birds and the only alpine parrot in the world - definitely worth protecting!”
We tasted different kinds of honey and learned that bees make 22,700 trips to produce a jar of Manuka honey.
We learn about the Haast’s Eagle, the now-extinct biggest bird ever that lived on Earth with a 3.5 m wingspan. “Believed to have gone extinct in 1400. The largest predator among New Zealand's animals, it is believed to have weighed up to 17.8kg with a 3 metre wingspan. Its feet & claws were as large as a modern-day tiger's. Moa were the eagle's main food source, but Maori tales suggest they attacked human children. The extinction of the moa led to the extinction of the eagle.”
We learn about NZ birds and how they are protected: “New Zealand.. land of the flightless birds? 32 of the 60 species of flightless birds worldwide are from NZ - that number has now halved to just 16, due to extinction. New Zealand is spending millions of dollars to create a safe haven for our native species.”
On Friday, we start at 6 am with a tour to Milford Sound https://www.viator.com/tours/Queenstown/Doubtful-Sound-Wilderness-Cruise-from-Queenstown/d407-2264RJ301. Our tour guide, Cameron, picks us up from a hotel 20 min walk away from ours. Cam talks a lot; some of it seems odd, like that Albatrosses are extinct except in New Zealand, that Americans pay $100k to hunt deer on NZ farms, and that Fungi caused the development of humans because when monkeys ate magic mushrooms it opened up their minds and allowed them to discover things.
We stop at Garston, a district that “was established in 1858, made up of two sheep stations - Glenquoich and Greenvale. Garston is renowned for being the most inland village in New Zealand and is nestled in the Upper Mataura Valley in the Southern Lakes district. It was named after a suburb of Liverpool in England. The valley in which Garston lies is flanked by the Eyre Mountains (1968 metres) to the west and the Slate Range (942 m) and Hector Mountains (1675 m) to the east.”
We stop at Lake Te Anau, the second largest lake in NZ. “While we may not see them, the dark waters conceal a wealth of underwater life, including both introduced and native fish. The natives: New Zealand's long-finned eel/tuna is one of the largest freshwater eels in the world, growing up to 2 metres long. Adult eels breed only once, at the end of their long lives, travelling thousands of kilometres from New Zealand to spawn deep in the Pacific Ocean. Young eels make the return journey. How they find their way upriver to this remote place is a wonder. Koaro are among the native fish whose juveniles are collectively called whitebait. Unlike some of its relatives, the koaro can spend its whole life in freshwater and is well suited to rivers like the Eglinton/Upokororo. Newcomers: Trout are also likely to live in Mirror Lakes, although they tend to prefer faster-flowing waters. Brown trout were introduced to Fiordland in 1867 as an angling fish; rainbow trout followed in the 1880s.“
We also stop for breakfast and get packed lunch. We see the white flowering Manuka trees which make the Manuka honey, well, with the help from the bees. We learn that Beech trees are “climbing” up the mountains with their roots. As they are all vertically interconnected, tree avalanches rip out trees on a stripe of mountain denuding it from vegetation. It takes 150 to 400 years until it is covered again.
We arrive at Fiordland National Park, the biggest national park in NZ, and one of the largest in the world. We stop at Mirror Lakes and at Falls Creek, a beautiful stream and waterfall. At one stop, we see Keas and take pictures of them eating and flying.
Shortly before arriving, “the road climbs through a cascade-tastic valley to the Homer Tunnel, 101km from Te Anau and framed by a high-walled, ice-carved amphitheatre. Begun as a relief project in the 1930s and completed in 1953, the tunnel is one way (traffic lights direct vehicle flow - patience required). … Dark, rough-hewn and dripping with water, the 1270m-long tunnel”.
When we come out of the tunnel, we see the “Wall of 1000 Waterfalls“. When we arrive at the Milford Sound, we embark our ship, the Milford Cruises. The captain, Roger who was born in Stuttgart, explains that the top layer of the water is freshwater with tannins (brownish) and the lower sections consist of saltwater. When there is no rain for 3 weeks, the Fjord water turns blue. We see a pod of Dolphins and some Fur Seals.
We learn that the Fjord was formed by glaciers. It is 300 m deep, but at the entrance to ocean it is only 60 m deep. I chat with Roger, the captain, who has been doing this job for 30 years—one week working and one week off. We then start our 4-hour drive back. “Milford Sound receives an estimated one million annual visitors which is an almighty challenge to keep its beauty pristine. But out on the water, all human activity - cruise ships, divers, kayakers - seems dwarfed into insignificance.”
We encounter dolphins.
On Saturday, we do a wine tour with Altitude Premium Small Group Travel. “Throughout the day, you can enjoy tasting over 18 spectacular cool-climate wines, with the option of a scrumptious lunch. You will be well looked after and hosted by an Altitude wine guide and cellar staff, and educated and entertained with local winemaking facts and stories. Your Wine Tasting Journey Begins: Start your day being met by your wine-certified guide at or near your Queenstown accommodation. From there, we’ll travel a short distance to the Gibbston wine region, home to top-rated wineries, award-winning winemakers, and, of course, delicious Pinot Noir. Gibbston Valley Winery: Our first location is the iconic Gibbston Valley Winery. Gibbston Valley is one of the region’s founding wineries and it’s here that we will join a guided tour through New Zealand’s largest underground wine cave and enjoy tastings of some of their world-famous wines."
"Kinross: Kinross is a fantastic location to try a range of different wines from multiple winemakers. Along with producing their own, they will also showcase wines from smaller producers and share their incredible stories. After your wine tasting, we allow extra time to enjoy lunch. Kinross has a range of delicious dishes on its menu, including pizzas, platters, smaller bites, and mains. This is ordered and paid directly on the day, giving you the flexibility to order what you would like based on your taste and budget."
"The Church Cellar Door: We finish our tasting tour at The Church Tasting Room. This is a picturesque location, in a small refurbished church sitting on large sweeping grounds. This is the tasting room for Mt Edward Wines, who are a family-run producer in Gibbston growing small batches from single vineyard sites. Their wines include Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, and Chenin.”
Later, we have dinner at finz Seafood & Grill Restaurant. Gisela had half a crayfish, and I had pan-seared scallops and a whole sole.
As the sunset is only at 21:35 pm at the 43 degree latitude in Queenstown, we walk back to the hotel when there was still light outside.
After checking out, we have breakfast at The Boatshed and a stroll through the nearby Marina. We returned the rental car (initially, there was no empty parking spot at Sixt) and then checked in (20 min for baggage drop and 30 min for security).
More pictures here
New Zealand 2023 - Part 1
After some chaos at the check-in, we make it to Christchurch almost on time. The flight was extremely bumpy—to the degree that we could not read anymore, and the crew stopped serving food. Strangely, there were clouds outside at the cruising altitude of our plane, which I had never seen.
In Christchurch, we see a passenger being asked to put on a jacket and walk with it through security at the airport. The biosecurity dog then finds an apple in her jacket pocket. The dog gets a treat. We picked up our car at the airport and drove to the Wyndham Garden Christchurch Kilmore Street. We do a small excursion in the city, admiring the large murals, the historic tram, the Weeping Willows of Christchurch, and the artsy elephants, and we have dinner at a wine bar.
On the 28th, we drive to the Akaroa Marine Reserve with our rental car—a 1.5-hour drive from Christchurch “Shore Excursion Guided Sea Kayaking through Akaroa Marine Reserve”. After arriving in Akaroa, we look around in the little town and then meet with our guide, who operates out of a van with a trailer full of "safe stable NZ-made sea kayak(s)”.
We have “a spectacular tour through an untouched marine reserve which now exists in a flooded volcanic crater from millions of years ago. The geology and scenery will blow your mind during this intimate sea-kayaking safari. Paddle along through the clear turqouise waters of the pacific, you get the feeling you are in a postcard! Your guide will keep watch for sightings of native New Zealand marine and bird life” We do not see the famous Hector Dolphins, white-flippered penguins and the NZ fur seals, but a lot of kelp and mussels. It was nice that there were only 8 people in our group. John, our guide, originally from Vancouver Island, tells us about the geology of the waterway we are kayaking: The 9 million-year-old volcano is 50 m deep in some places. He also shares marine biology facts about the importance of kelp and that a single mussel filters 50 litres of water per day. The Dolphins are hunting with echo and therefore don’t mind the cloudy water, while the sharks don’t come in as they need clear water to see their prey. We find giant big black mussels, twice the size as what we buy at the fish market. We also venture into a 10-metre-long cave accessible only from the water with our kayaks.
After two hours of paddling 3.6 NM, we have lunch at Bully Hayes, eating Battered Chatham Cod and a Chowder.
The town was first a French settlement which is still reflected in the French culture and cuisine. Later, the British arrived and took over the administration, allowing the French settlers to stay. We also see remnants of the long whaling history that has shaped the early stages of the settlement.
We take the scenic route, called the tourist route, back to Christchurch, from which we can see the entrance to the bay. The fields are full of sheep and cows (and we saw rabbits). We also note a lot of patches of Scandinavian pines which grow faster here than in Scandinavian countries, but they mess up the environment as their needles create acidity which kills runoff the marine life.
Next to the roads, we see a lot of Fingerhut and Lupinen—the latter also a pest in NZ. On our way back, we stop at Little River where we walk around at the Silo Stay (https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/HotelHighlight-s1-g1600810-d6353495-Reviews-SiloStay-Little_River_Canterbury_Region_South_Island.html) which I think would be ideal for international students in Sydney. We also look at galleries but cannot go into them as they all close at 5 pm.
On Friday (29th), we visit the Antarctica New Zealand Centre in the morning ($69 per person). Christchurch is one of the main gateways to Antartica. From the early 1900s, British expeditions used the port of Lyttelton on their way to Antartica. In 1995, Christchurch became the base for the US Antartica Program known as Operation Deep Freeze. “New Zealand is a key international player in Antarctica. Scott Base was built in 1957 but Christchurch's Antarctic heritage dates back more than 100 years. Scott Base is Antarctica New Zealand's research station and the hub for science activities in Antarctica year-round. Up to 86 people can sleep at Scott Base at any one time but more than 350 people visit each year. Antarctica New Zealand is the government agency which supports science and peace within the Ross Sea region of Antarctica.“
We learn about the legacy of adventure “A century ago Antarctica was in the grip of the 'heroic-age' of exploration. The early expeditions typified leadership, courage, passion, sacrifice and sometimes tragedy. Led by explorers including Ernest Shackleton, Captain Robert Falcon Scott and Ronald Amundsen, their legends were writ large in the Antarctic continent. From their simple wooden bases, they set out to explore the continent. A century on the expedition huts still stand, crammed full of supplies and equipment. They have been described as the most evocative heritage buildings in the world. The Antarctic Heritage Trust cares for this extraordinary legacy on behalf of the international community to benefit both current and future generations.” We go shortly into a -8C climate chamber and watch (from the outside) a -18C windshield storm.
We then watched the feeding of the Blue Penguins, which are only 30cm high and weigh 1 kg. “The breeding season starts around August and September. The female Little Blue penguin lays two white eggs, which will take about 20 days to form inside her. Males and females share incubation equally in 1-12 day shifts. While one of the couple stays with the egg, the other parent is at sea. The changeover of nest duties between the adults occurs at night when the parent at sea returns to the nest. The incubation of the Little Blue penguin chick lasts on average 37 days.”
We watch a 4D movie about the Antarctic station with moving chairs and water spray getting onto our faces during the voyage over the ocean. We also learn that at its deepest, the Antarctic ice is 4.5 km thick. At the end, we watch a guide showing his 5 Huskies who can wrap their long, bushy tails around their faces for extra warmth while they sleep.
Later in the afternoon, we went to the Christchurch Bonatic Garden, passing on our way by a building of Canterbury College where Ernest Lord Rutherford , father of nuclear physics, studied.
On Saturday, (30th) at 6:45 am, we walked to the bus interchange for a 20-minute drive to the railway station, passing our hotel (no pickup from our hotel available). We board the train with assigned seats. The departure time is between 8 and 8:30 (not exactly determined).
The train commentary tells us that there are 360,000 residents in Christchurch, the largest city on the South Island. Located in the Canterbury region which stretches to the Southern Alps—mostly processing agricultural products. The Arthur Pass is 900 metres high.
Passing through the plains, we see a lot of agricultural supply shops where one can buy tractors and plows. The landscape is “on the move,” geologically speaking. Some plains are 400 metres higher than others, shaped by earthquakes, erosion and volcanoes. Some birds, which lived here before their extinction by humans 700 years ago, stood 3.5 metres high. Now, dairy farming is the big business here. We see the biggest milk processing plant for milk powder, which can process 600 million litres of milk per day.
Sheep farming in the Highlands is still done by Stochmen on horses with dogs. Mostly, Merino sheep are raised here in harsh conditions at high altitudes. Some of the meandering rivers run underground. The olive-green alpine parrots, the Kea, can sometimes be seen at the station. The 40 cm bird is among the most intelligent animals on earth, able to solve sequential tasks.
The Arthur’s Pass National Park is a 90.000 hectares alpine park founded in 1920. The Forrest is made up of Mountain and Silver Beech, which can live up to 400 years.
We do a 45 min walk to the Devil’s Punchbowl with 450 steps on the way. The driver tells us that the Keas will come to parking cars to eat the windshield wipers and other rubber as the rubber includes Zink which tastes sweet on their palates. We see a lot of lichens and moss in this temperate rainforest.
Afterwards, we have lunch in the village: beef pie and quesadillas. During the lunch break, the driver tells me that the train killed 10-15 sheep which were grazing on the tracks while we were going towards Arthur’s Pass. We also manage to take some pictures of the Keas which try to steal food from the tourists.
We stop at Lake Pearson in the afternoon. Another stop is at Stockhill where the Disney movie Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe was in part filmed (Battle scene).
We learn more about the underground rivers: “Beneath your feet, a mountain-fed stream runs underground. Take time out from your journey to see why this spectacular limestone landscape has inspired generations of other travellers.”
On our way back we stopped for 50-minutes at Kura Tawhiti Conservation Area “The majestic limestone formations of Kura Tawhiti are of outstanding cultural and ecological importance. This area has special significance to Ngãi Tahu, with ties that stretch unbroken from distant ancestors to present generations (authority) over the lands and waterways of this area is still held by Ngãi Tuahuriri, who are the descendants of Ngãi Tahu ancestor Tuahuriri. Kura Tawhiti has Topuni status (a symbolic cloak of protection), which is a legal recognition of the site's importance to Ngãi Tahu.” The basalt rocks are amazing in size and arrangement—as placed there on purpose.
We read about extinguishing species: “The first iwi (tribes) to hunt moa in this area also had to contend with the threat from pouakai (Haast's eagle) - the largest eagle known to have existed. Fully grown pouakai weighed up to 15 kg with a wingspan of up to 3m and had talons that could pierce the skin of a moa and sever its spinal column. When moa numbers began to decline, pouäkai also targeted humans as prey, attacking and killing both children and adults. To escape this threat, iwi learned how to snare pouäkai and kill it.“
On our way back, we hear again about the importance of dairy farming for the region and seed and grain production for NZ. Farmers grow hedges to break the wind as the plains lack surface features.
In the morning, we leave for Mt Cook—a 4-hour drive of 330 km. We stopped at a few sightseeing spots, like Geraldine (skipping Fairlie) and then Lake Tekapo. We had lunch at Lake Pukaki, which was very windy. The terrain is officially protected as an International Dark Sky Reserve—the world's largest Gold Status International Dark Sky Reserve. “At 4367 sq km, the Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve lies in the heart of the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park.”
We stop at Lake Tekapo and have lunch while the wind blows like crazy.
Continue to Part 2.