Port Lincoln
In December 2024, we travelled to Port Lincoln, South Australia. Port Lincoln is home to the largest fishing fleet in the Southern Hemisphere.
"The local Southern Bluefin Tuna (SBT) industry has worked tirelessly to recover the global population, which declined after years of unregulated fishing through the 1960s and 70s. International catch restrictions that were introduced in the 1980s have led to increases in both juvenile and adult populations. By 2014, the ongoing scientific assessment of the SBT population confirmed a strong recovery and sustainable fishing. In 2015, the Port Lincoln SBT industry was awarded the internationally renowned Friend of the Sea sustainability certificate in recognition of the sustainable management of both the SBT wild fishery and aquaculture operations. Certification has been maintained through 2021 for consistently prioritising the fishing of tomorrow, not just today.
Today, the industry is the most valuable sector of South Australia's aquaculture industry. The SBT industry has an estimated annual value of between AUD$150-$300 million. Direct and indirect employment in Port Lincoln is over 1500 full-time equivalents. The entire industry is intricately orchestrated and powerfully driven. Success relies on an awesome demonstration of teamwork, with each step relying on the successful completion of the one prior. Decades of experience, research and attention to detail feed into the practice, yielding a world-class, premium quality product."
During the flight from Adelaide to Port Lincoln, we saw already the holding pens for BST and Kingfish in the Spencer Gulf.
Anticipating dirt roads, we rented a 4WD SUV.
Driving on challenging roads:
First, we explored the Port Lincoln Marina, where the fishing fleet is located.
The next day, we explored the city:
We had an excellent take-out lunch from a French cafe, "L'ANSE" and liked it so much that we did breakfast the next day there too:
On our first day in Lincoln National Park, we drove to Memory Cove Wilderness Protection Area. The drive was quite challenging on the dirt road.
We saw an Emu near the road:
And, we spotted a goanna which I managed to photograph.
We found a pristine, almost empty beach at Memory Cove; some snorkelers and others tried to catch sand whiting. Memory Cove was named by Captain Matthew Flinders, who discovered the area while commanding the H.M.S Investigator on the afternoon of Saturday, 20 February 1802. Due to a water shortage on board, Master Thistle, Midshipman Taylor and six crew were dispatched to the mainland to search for safe anchorage and water. At the same time, Flinders finalised the exploration of Uncertain Island.
I snorkled a bit, observing a few small fish, including a tiny Flathead:
We then drove to the sand dunes—thanks to our 4W drive with axe-lock. We observed some kids doing sandboarding.
On our way back, we ate at The Fresh Fish Place:
The next day, we went out with Calypso Star Charters to swim with Sea Lions at Grinder Island. We also saw some dolphins close to the boat, but not while in the water. The 40-minute experience was amazing, as the sea lions wanted to play with us.
Playing with Sea Lions:
We had dinner at the Marina Hotel.
The next day, we did a 2-hour bushwalk, grade 4, at Stamford Hill, the Stamford Hill Loop Hike. "Excellent views, tranquil surrounds and interesting history are features of this hike. Take in the magnificent panorama of Lincoln National Park, Boston Bay and offshore island from the historic Flinders Monument at the top of Stamford Hill. Discover historic ruins left by the woodcutters. At way up to the summit of Stamford Hill there are interpretive signs about the challenges Matthew Flinders encountered in finding water, and signs about the area’s natural history: Imagine climbing through this dense scrub on a hot February day. Eight of your crew had been lost at sea just days earlier, and now supplies of freshwater are low. This is the situation that Captain Matthew Flinders faced when he anchored below Stamford Hill on 25 February 1802. Flinders described the hill as 'a ridge of moderately high land about two miles long, but when seen to the north or south it assumes a conical form. I named it Stamford Hill; and there being a good deal of wood scattered over it, a hope was given of procuring water by digging at the foot.' He named the hill after a village in his homeland of Lincolnshire, England. From the top of the hill, Flinders could survey the area and record angles necessary for mapping."
We passed Pillie Lake:
We had magnificent views from the trail.
In the evening, we had dinner at Del Giorno's.
We went to the lighthouse and September Beach at Lincoln National Park the next day. We explored the beach; I discovered a tidal zone pool with red-footed Rockpool Shrimps. Several animals and plants that I saw, I later recognised in this guide to Rockpooles.
On our way, we discovered another goanna:
Cars are allowed on the beach:
We had an excellent dinner at Peter Teakle Line & Label.
- Smoked pork, apple kimchi, kohlrabi, radish, soy, koji mayo
- Hiramasa sashimi, daikon, ginger, wasabi, caviar, ponzu, red fingerlimes
- Grilled bluefin tuna, ricotta gnocchi, saffron, fennel, sauce vierge
- Charcoal Kingfish, sambal, coastal greens, lime, curry butter
The service was excellent. We particularly appreciated the explanations of the dishes and the rationale of the composition at serving time. The view onto the vineyard was magnificent.
We also did the "Seafood Bay Cruise" with Calypso Star Charters. Overall, we had a great time observing wildlife, but we could not understand what Ash, our guide, was saying while talking in the back of the boat over the engine noise. The PA system was not functioning. We saw a lot of sea lions because the skipper got very close to them on Donington Island.
"Kingfish have been farmed in Spencer Gulf since 1992. The cycle begins in the Clean Seas hatchery in Arno Bay, where eggs are collected from healthy brood stock. After 48 hours the eggs hatch and are placed in larval rearing tanks. At 75 days old the fingerlings are transferred to sea cages in Spencer Gulf and fed a highly developed diet to guarantee correct nutrition and optimum growth. A concentrated effort through consistent research and development maintains highest qualities for the product and minimal impact on the environment. After 18 to 24 months the fish are harvested at approximately four kilograms and marketed both domestically and internationally. Currently, 2500 to 3000 tons are produced annually." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
Mussel Farming: Floating mussel larvae attach themselves to specialised spat collecting ropes suspended down to six metres then begin to feed immediately. At five months old they are stripped from the collection rope, transported to the grow out sites and seeded onto grow/dropper ropes on the same day. The rate of seeding (mussels/metre) is determined by local environmental conditions, timing and size required at harvest. An automated process for seeding has been developed whereby the juveniles are loaded into a continuous sock that surrounds the grow rope which the mussels will soon attach themselves to. The grow/dropper rope surrounded by mussels and encased in a sock is all then attached to a longline system to a depth of around 10 metres and supported by a large buoy assembly. As the mussels grow the number of buoys is increased to counteract the additional weight. Being filter feeders this suspension technique optimises the ability for the feeding mussels to access the required nutrients within the ambient waters and promotes quick growth and a high meat yield. After approximately 18 months from spat collection the mussels are harvested by utilising the same automated system used to remove the spat. They are then washed, graded, bagged up and transported to a modern shore-based facility ready for processing into consumer packaging. The local mussel farmers produce around 1500 ton annually from 550 hectares on sites located in Boston Bay, Louth Bay and adjacent waters. Ninety-five per cent of mussels are sold live. The remaining five per cent are sold cooked." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
Tuna Farming: "Once counted and secured away, the process of feeding and monitoring the health of the tuna commences. It involves daily inspections by divers and feed boat operators. The advances in tuna aquaculture have been rapid. As fishermen were already proficient in skills acquired over generations, it was practically second nature. Individual companies leap-frogged their adversaries on a daily basis, rising to the high standard of husbandry evident today. This includes crew safety and environmental responsibility, attributes shared by all aquaculture on Eyre Peninsula. The tuna are held for 3-4 months, being fed six days a week. In 2016, 42,000 ton of feed was consumed. Due to the drop in water flow during dodge tides (extreme reduction in tidal variation) and subsequent cut in oxygen availability, some farmers opt to restrict feed volumes to mitigate stress, as demand for oxygen while feeding is high. Health and well-being are scrutinised continuously until optimum size and fat content is achieved for the Japanese market. Domestic market demand is relatively insignificant in the scheme of the overall industry yet is not and should not be ignored. Small air shipments are made to Japan for the fresh fish markets although this process has been greatly reduced since the inception of tuna farming. Today, freezer/carrier vessels arrive and daily harvests are processed, then fed to them according to their freezing capabilities. Where once we struggled to achieve hundreds per day, numbers are well into the thousands, making for better quality and economic viability." (Joseph Puglisi: Coastal Eyre)
"The Australian sea lion is the rarest seal species in Australian waters. Now endangered, it's estimated that there's between 10,000 and 15,000 sea lions in Australia. South Australia has approximately 82% of the population - the other 18% exist in Western Australia. The current low population size is due to a combination of exploitation during the sealing era, interactions with commercial fisheries, prey depletion, human disturbance, diseases and marine pollution. Populations are still declining at a rate of 2% per year on average. Due to their vulnerability to disturbance, Australian sea lion colonies are largely restricted to remote, offshore islands. A large portion of colonies are located on islands off the coast of Eyre Peninsula."
On our last day, we visited Oyster HQ in Coffin Bay, situated right on the water's edge. They offer all-day oysters and tapas-style dining, showcasing the fantastic Eyre Peninsula seafood and produce. They even have an oyster vending machine:
"Experience the pristine clear waters, pure fresh air and creamy salty taste of Australia's most sought after Coffin Bay Oysters on our Oyster Farm Tour! Wade out into the water, learn to shuck your own oysters, and taste our famous Coffin Bay oysters, moments after being plucked straight out of the sea! An up-close and personal experience with the Oyster Farmer himself, a once-in-a-lifetme culinary adventure, and the only place in the world, where you have the opportunity to:
- Climb into waders and wade through the water
- Sit in the heart of working commercial oyster farm, on our floatng 'Salt Water Pavilion'
- Savour the experience with a glass of South Australian
Riesling whilst out in the water - Hear the history of Coffin Bay, and oyster farming Select from options to create your memorable experience:
Bottle of Sparkling/ Riesling, Add Extra Oysters, Enjoy a Seafood Platter after the tour at Oyster HQ."
Oyster Farming: "Each farm site engages systems according to requirements. On the Eyre Peninsula either "rack and rail" or "Variable Longline System" are used. Our focus will be on longline which was developed in Cowell. These system operations vary so as to take advantage of the local environmental conditions. The variable longline is where the oyster baskets are attached to a line suspended between wooden posts with a clip system for that line at a number of levels. Construction of the site is mainly done in summer to capitalise on lower tides and favourable weather. Oysters begin in a hatchery where they are grown out to approx 4mm then shipped to farmers. They are then placed into bags containing around 250 oysters each. The amount decreases through the grow out period (down to 60 per basket) giving more room and optimum growth conditions. The baskets are hung to expose the oysters at low tide yet other factors may govern this level depending on nutrient requirement, salinity or growth rate preference. All these factors may differ from operator to operator considering tides, nutrient demands and weather. The baskets of oysters are returned to shore based facilities 3-4 times for grading during their lifecycle with dead ones removed and the remaining to be returned to the site the following day. Time from hatchely to harvest is again determined by growth rates and market demands, average at 14 months."
On our way back, we spotted another Emu:
More pictures here.